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Third Order Wave Theory of Partial Clapotis

Author(s): Takashi Tomita

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Abstract: The wave kinematics of the partial clapotis, which is formed in the front sea area of coastal and harbor structures, has not been discussed enough. In this paper, the 3rd-order theory of the partial clapotis is newly developed in order to investigate theoretically the kinematics of the partial clapotis. The higher order solution estimates a steeper wave crest and flatter wave trough at anti-node, and a small hump appeared at wave trough in the 2nd-order solution is almost neglected in the 3rd-order at anti-node, regardless of the reflection coefficient. With increasing of the reflection coefficient, the skewness of the horizontal particle velocity at anti-node increases.

DOI:

Year: 1991

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