Author(s): Panu Pietikainen; Matthias Delpey; Denis Morichon; Volker Roeber
Linked Author(s):
Keywords: Infragravity waves; Wave focusing; Numerical modelling
Abstract: Human activities in coastal areas can affect local hydrodynamics in multiple and complex ways. An example of this is a man-made accumulation of sediment 3kms offshore from the mouth of river Adour in south-western France. This is a sediment depot for dredged material from the river Adour in order to keep the channel navigable for commercial shipping. Depending on the shape of the depot, it is suspected to affect the short-wave field but also possibly the infragravity (IG) band as well. In certain conditions, these IG waves have been recorded to propagate upstream Adour, posing unintended threats to, for example, ship moorings. In this context, it is important to understand the relationship between the shape of the depot and the subsequent wave propagation, including IG waves, e.g. to identify more conservative depot shapes. In this study we use the Boussinesq type numerical solver BOSZ [1] to simulate hindcast storms over different bathymetric configurations to identify the driving features of IG propagation.
Year: 2026