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Observing and Characterizing Infragravity Waves Through Different Sampling Devices: A Case-Study off the Belgian Coast

Author(s): Wieter Boone; Yuri Pepi; Vincent Gruwez; Leandro Ponsoni; Pieter Gurdebeke; Clara Ribeiro; Peter Troch

Linked Author(s): Peter Troch

Keywords: Infragravity wave observations; Field measurements; ADCP

Abstract: Infragravity waves are surface waves with relatively longer periods in comparison to periods of the spectrum-dominant gravity waves. They are characterized by oscillations between 20 and 300 seconds (0.0033 Hz < f < 0.05 Hz), amplitudes that range from a few millimeters to tens of centimeters, and wavelengths of kilometers (Munk, 1950; Holman and Bowen, 1982; Ardhuin et al., 2014). Their forcing is linked to, amongst others, nonlinear interaction between sea swell waves, varying wave heights causing the breaking point of the waves to vary with height, and height variation of incoming waves (Bertin et al., 2018). Infragravity waves play an important role in coastal dynamics (Svendsen, 2005) and have been reported to trigger nearshore hazards such as beach and dune erosion (de Vries et al. 2008; Roelvink et al., 2009), development of seiches in harbors (Melito et al., 2006; Cuomo and Guza, 2017), wave-driven coastal inundation (Gent, 2001; Stockdon et al., 2006), and ice shelves collapsing (Bromirski et al., 2010). Therefore, revealing infragravity wave characteristics is of utmost importance to understand their potential to generate hazards in a certain region, especially at sites strongly influenced by human occupation and activities. Their consideration in coastal safety planning can avoid damages, as several locations have already experienced in the past (Yamanaka et al., 2019). Implementing optimal sampling strategies for observing and characterizing infragravity waves might be challenging. By nature, these waves are hard to measure accurately due to their low amplitude. Their evolving characteristics in an environment marked by pronounced bathymetric features, such as the sand bank systems off the Belgian coast, add a degree of complexity that requires testing of different approaches, and at different sites. Within this context, this work first revisits observational approaches, instrumentation, logistics, and sampling techniques that have been used to study this phenomenon on the Belgian Coast. The advantages, challenges and limitations of different approaches are discussed, and best practices for collecting high-quality data in the field are addressed.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.59490/coastlab.2024.814

Year: 2024

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